Battling Sockeye Salmon on the Kenai River

Ever since I was a small child, I was drawn to the north. The snow-capped glaciers, art of the Salish & Inuit tribes, rolling tundra, howl of the wolf & the salmon run. When I had the chance to rent a movie, I always reached for the VHS of White Fang with Ethan Hawke. I have spent many hours of my life casting into waters for trout, but I have always aspired to target salmon. I would dream of one day seeing the Kenai River. To feel the crisp air of Alaska fill my lungs, taking it in like it was my last breath. (Cue the theme song from John Wayne’s ‘North to Alaska’.)

My love, this man who has brought such immense joy to my life took my hand & we escaped through the smoke-filled skies. To a place my heart has yearned for before my memories were mine. The sight of her wonder made me cry. Not only to be in the embrace of Alaska, but to be there with him as well!

Navigating the insanity of TSA and being crammed into a tube with no personal space to fly above the clouds to our destination was going well. Tim had stated on the plane as we flew over the Gulf of Alaska, “Here in a few hours, you'll be catching your first salmon on the Kenai River!” I was bursting with excitement! It didn't seem real!

Arriving at the Anchorage airport, my goal was to get a photo with the infamous bull moose! I really had arrived! We boarded the next flight from Anchorage to Kenai on a Cessna, provided by Grant Aviation. My eyes feasted on the colors of the mud and sand left by mineral deposits at low tide. On the other side, peering down at a landscape filled with pools, where you can envision moose surfacing. The excitement that filled my body was undeniable. (Funny, how when you exit the Kenai Airport, the view looks so similar to Glacier International Airport, Kalispell, MT.)

Tim's friend Charlie came and picked us up, shuttling to the cabin that we would call home for a week. After some much-needed food and grabbing a few groceries, it was time! Slipping on our waders and strapping on boots to drop into the cool waters of the Kenai! We gathered all the necessities and hopped into the boat. The Kenai River was running unusually high this year. My first impression of the Kenai was unreal. From the pace of the current rushing by to the span it reached bank to bank. Our first stop was a popular spot in the area, where several guides and others were lined up flossing the waters to hook the lip of a sockeye salmon! I was expecting the Kenai River to be cold, but it certainly was warmer than expected. (Not much cooler than the Owyhee River below the dam, which I'm very used too.) Per tradition, as soon as I was immersed in the current, I had to dip my hand into the water, scooping the rocky sand from the bottom to observe. The black volcanic gravel bottom, a perfect home for spawning salmon. 

I received a quick casting and flossing lesson from Tim & Ashley (Charlie’s wife), and took a spot in line. My hand was firmly gripped on the rod, and I had to keep reminding myself not to treat this as a fly fishing rod and grab the line when I felt a tug. (We were using 20lb test fishing line, not fly line.) Tim had warned me many times how hard they fight, and that it would be something I had never fought before. Feeling my weight lightly dance along the bottom of the river in the current, I looked over and saw Tim had one! As he fought this huge fish and I could see the action of his rod bending, I was shocked to see the size of the hen sockeye that emerged from the river! Then it happened! The tug on my line was more like a yank of tug of war that comes as a surprise! The force that these sockeye pull on your line while gliding through the current of the river is unbelievable! I was so excited to bring this beautiful fish in, and of course had to give it a kiss on the head. A tradition I will carry for all first fish on a trip caught (other than catfish … no way I’m kissing that tub of guts… as Tim has called them.) To thank this fish and the many others that have met their demise a bit earlier than expected. It is not in vain, but to fill the bellies of those who would rather experience the beauty of this landscape, the fight, and immerse themselves in the elements of hard work. 

Flossing is unlike any other fishing technique I had experienced. It wasn’t so much skill, but persistence. The real hardship was keeping the sockeye on the hook and not losing them while reeling in. There was one day we must have lost over 30+ fish. Spirits weren’t dampened, though; it was still a hell of a good time, with amazing company, in the most gorgeous place I could ever imagine. 

On one particular day, Tim and the men ventured out on the ocean to catch halibut, I made the tough decision to stay behind. Unfortunately, my first experience on the ocean in a boat didn’t go well. When we were in Mexico earlier this spring, I was quite excited to hop on the boat at the chance to catch a Mahi Mahi, but instead I provided enough chum for a commercial vessel. Even though I didn’t go out on the halibut adventure, our gracious host Sue took us (Ashley & Mariah) to the Wednesday Market in Soldotna, where I was able to see the local art and businesses that had booths. We visited the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge visitor center and the Kenai Museum. One of my favorite spots Sue took us to was the beach to witness the dip netters that scoop the sockeye while they run from the ocean into the river. We made our way down onto the beach, and per tradition, if I met with the opportunity, I shed my Chacos and dug my toes into the sand, walking happily into the ocean. Picking various rocks from the rolling waves. I was captivated by the peaks that were across the bay. This place is nothing short of magical. But it is easy to see that it is not for the faint of heart. It is rugged, thick, soggy, cold, and filled with wildlife that, given the chance, would make you their next meal. 

Not going to lie, as the world burned back home - I could have stayed in Alaska. My heart was both filled with so much but also breaking at the same time for the desert I love burned to the ground. I breathed in the crisp, clean air deeply, and soaked in the gorgeous sights of the Kenai River at every chance I got. The color of this river was so astonishing. The pine trees were smaller than any I had seen before. Almost like they were reaching for the sky and a hand lightly booped them, and said: “That’s tall enough, now.” Casting my eyes on landscapes where caribou migrate in the winter, envisioning the steam exiting their lungs along the tundra. There was so much to explore, do, and see. The amount of wildlife surrounding you at all times, from water to land, was abundant. 

On our last day in Alaska, Tim and I ventured out to Homer. This is where he and Sue’s husband Dick, and the men, depart from the harbor to go halibut fishing. The drive was stunning. To compare it to any other place I had been would be Western Oregon, except with thicker, denser foliage in most areas. The Sterling Highway was busy, and we passed Salmonfest, which seemed to have a great turnout. Peeking through the overcast clouds, the ocean was revealed. The peninsula was almost too much to comprehend in beauty. Sitting and having lunch, watching the tide come in, ships rocking on the waves in the distance. Still writing this, it doesn’t seem real that I was able to be there. We walked along and saw the fishing boats, ships, and charters bring in halibut, cod, and more. We were even able to see a truck bed filled with a few black-tailed deer; a hunter must have harvested them earlier that morning from across the bay. Of course, being in Homer, we had to visit the infamous Salty Dawg Saloon. As a past bartender, it is quite unbelievable how many dollars cover the surface of this tiny little bar. Two tequila shots down, and a dollar signed, tacked on the wall, and mission complete. 

Nine days in a place I dreamed of since a little girl. It still captures my heart, and I can’t wait to go back. I couldn’t have imagined it any better, nor in better company. Our hosts were absolutely amazing, with wonderful hospitality and so many laughs. To share this time with a man who has my entire heart and feeds my soul is beyond my wildest of dreams. Every person I encountered in Alaska was so kind and accepting. I am still working through being good enough in any aspect of life. To be loved by such a good man who is respectable and adventurous; I am ever grateful every moment. His friends have opened their homes to us and never once made me feel unwelcome or too weird to be there. I was a little overly excited when any of us would catch a fish, but that’s me. I love celebrating a good time, beautiful places, good food, and making memories to last a lifetime. Funny thing is, I could keep writing about the exceptional meals that we had with people I now call friends. Steak dinner and homemade mashed potatoes, fish boil with yellow eye, black sea bass, and halibut cheeks with a side of Alaskan Moose steak. Truly, in my element and soul-filled to the brim.

Until next time, Alaska… I’ll be dreaming of seeing bears, caribou, and wolves on the next adventure. 

*Side note: While catching these unbelievable sockeye salmon, I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to try the roe. We are avid viewers of the YouTuber BiggWaterGuy, based in Oregon. He had taken a trip to Alaska a few weeks prior to our trip and posted a video about making a cured roe that was edible much like you’d find in a sushi restaurant. I did a bit of research and decided to make it happen one evening while we were relaxing. Salmon roe caviar, prepared in a Japanese style, is called Ikura. First attempt, it was a long process of cleaning, for sure. The cleaned salmon roe was then combined with a mixture of soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, and water to sit for 12- 24 hrs. The cured salmon roe was reminiscent of popping boba, with a soy sauce taste. I really wanted to share this with my son, since his favorite food is sushi and anything Japanese; popping boba and soy sauce aligned. We vacuum-sealed about 4 skeins of salmon roe, thinking they might hold up better on the skein, so we could clean them once home and I could recreate the recipe for my boy. Well, let’s just say the freezing somehow changed the skin of the roe, so it wasn’t as strong as it was when fresh. This caused the eggs to almost disintegrate when I cleaned them off the skein at home. Unfortunately, I was only able to make a very small batch. However, I used a different technique this time and only used water, soy sauce, and mirin, as BiggWaterGuy does. I preferred this recipe much more than the one I used in Alaska. Next time, I think I’ll prepare it first and then vacuum seal it to bring home.

+A special thank you to the following people who made this trip so amazing and unforgettable!
Dick & Sue Evey, Charlie & Ashley Gissel, Jason & Mariah, John & Denise Evey with the kids. It was great meeting everyone!